Saturday, 12 November 2016

Atamasthana (The Eight Sacred Sites in Anuradhapura) – අටමස්ථාන


Anuradhapura, the first capital of the Sri Lanka flourished for almost 1500 years starting form the 4th century BC. In the middle of 3rd Century BC, after 236 years of passing away of Buddha, Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka and from that point onward a great civilization was built upon the teaching of Buddha. Today Anuradhapura is one of the most sacred cities for the Buddhists all over the world and it is filled with Ancient Dagabas, monasteries, palaces, man made water tanks and royal parks. Out of these, Atamasthana ( the 8 sacred sites ) are considered the most important places that a Buddhist pilgrim must visit in Anuradhapura. These are the main sites in Anuradhapura that Buddha visited during his 3 visits to Sri Lanka.





https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atamasthana


Atamasthana In Anuradhapura


1. Sri Maha Bodhi

We are in the Poson season, a time when thousands of devotees make their annual pilgrimage to Mihintale to remember the day that Arahath Mahinda introduced the Buddha Dhamma to Sri Lanka during the reign of king Devanampiyatissa. The king and his courtiers were deeply impressed with the new faith and embraced Buddhism followed by hundreds and thousands of men and women.
Consequently, the aspiration to obtain a Bo-sapling from the Great Bodhi tree under which the Buddha attained Supreme Enlightenment, sprang up in the minds of those who embraced the new faith.
Thus the southern branch of the sacred Bo – tree at Buddha Gaya was brought over to Ceylon in 244 B.C by the nun Sanghamitta the sister of Arahath Mahinda. This sacred Bodhi sapling was ceremonially planted in the Mahamegha Uyana, the royal park to the south of the city of Anuradhapura.
It is interesting to recall some of the early writings on this most sacred Bodhi sapling.
The transportation of this hallowed sapling from the port of Tamralipti, at the mouth of the Ganges to the point of landing at the port of Jambukola in northern Lanka is one full of detailed descriptions of important events.
According to the great chronicle Mahavamsa, the ship bringing the sacred sapling ventured forth into the sea. A yojana around the waves of the great ocean was stilled. Lotus flowers of the five colours blossomed all round and many musical instruments resounded in the air. Many offerings were also made by Devas and Nagas for six long days out in the sea. On the last day of the week the great Bodhi sapling arrived in Lanka at Jambukola Patuna.
King Devanampiyatissa on hearing from the Samanera Sumana of the arrival of the sacred sapling caused the whole of the high road from the northern gate of Anuradhapura to the port of Jambukola to be decorated awaiting its arrival. The king with his splendid retinue marched in a celebratory procession and arrived at Samuddapannasala ( the sea hut) in Jambukola on the same day to receive the Bodhi sapling.
The joyful king seeing the coming of the great Bodhi sapling though full of anxiety walked even neck deep into the sea with nobles of 16 families. Taking the sacred Bodhi sapling upon his head the sovereign of Lanka walked back on to the shore and placed it on a beautifully decorated pavilion. The king himself worshiped the Bodhi sapling by bestowing his Kingdom and innumerable offerings were also made for many days and nights.
On the tenth day, the great Bodhi sapling was placed upon a magnificently decorated chariot and commenced the journey towards Anuradhapura. On the way, it was caused to be placed at various consecrated spots pointed out by the chief Thera Mahinda.
The eastern monastery and the village of Brahman Tivakka were the two important spots at which the great Bodhi sapling was highly honoured and worshipped during many days and nights.
On the fourteenth day the Royal procession carrying the great Bodhi-sapling finally entered the Mahameghavanarama under the direction of Sumana and at the decorated spot where former Bodhi trees stood, the great Bodhi sapling was ceremonially planted under the constellation Rohini. The first eight Bodhi saplings that sprang at the moment from the great Bodhi tree were planted at eight sacred places in Anuradhapura. Jambukola, Chandanagama and in the village of Brahman Tivakka.
Today the Sri Maha Bodhiya in Anuradhapura is the most sacred and venerated spot in Sri Lanka. Its importance is not restricted to the Buddhist world but also to the whole world who celebrate its fame as the oldest recorded tree in the world.

by Kishanie S. Fernando
Daily Mirror, June 20, 2005


2. Ruwanweliseya

Ruwanweli maha Seya was built by the great king Dutugamunu who reigned from 137BC to 119BC from Anuradhapura. Next to Sri Maha Bodhi, Ruwanweli Seya temple is the most venerated Buddhist site in Anuradhapura.
After the defeat of Elara, the South Indian invader and bringing the whole country under one rule by the great warrior king Dutugemunu, building of Ruwanweli Seya has been given the most prominence in most ancient texts in Sri Lanka.
The original stupa has been about 180 feet (55 metres) in height and had been expanded and renovated by many kings thereafter. The stupa is 350 feet (107 metres) in height and 300 feet (92 metres) in diameter today.
According to Mahavamsa, the great chronicle of Sri Lanka,  the preparation for the foundation for the stupa is described as follows;
….The ruler had the site of the stupa dug to the depth of seven cubits (about 17 ½ feet) …….round stones brought by warriors and had them broken by small hammers , then for the sake of firmness of the site he had the crushed stones stamped by elephants with feet covered in leather. He had butter clay laid over the stones and bricks over the clay. …. Rough plaster over it, quarts over that, a network of iron over that, and above that fragrant “marumba”.
The king had crystal spread over that and over the crystal stones. Everywhere in the work was the clay called butter clay with the resin of wood apple mixed with mercury. A bronze plate, eight finger breadths thick was laid over the stones. A silver plate seven finger breadths thick was laid over it with arsenic mixed in the oil of sesame.
Mahavamsa – The Great Chronicle of Sri Lanka

3.Thuparamaya
his is the first stupa to be built in the country after the introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka. Built in the time of king Devamnampiyatissa (250BC – 210BC) this was a stupa as well as an Aramic complex (monastery). Today ruins of this complex covers nearly 3 ½ acres. The stupa was built on the instructions of Mahinda Thero who brought Buddhism to the island to enshrine the right collar-bone of Lord Buddha.
On this stupa you can see a unique architectural feature called vatadage, a stupa-house. This building completely housed the stupa. At present four concentric circles of stone pillars are found around the stupa. They diminish in height from inner most circle and at one time carried the weight of a dome-shaped roof over the stupa. There has been 176 pillars which supported this stupa house and in 1896, 31 complete pillars with capitals has been standing. This vatadage has been built in the 1st century AC.
In the seventh century BC the stupa was covered with a gold and silver casing and the vatadagê (stupa-house) with golden bricks and golden doors. Then Pandyans (south Indian Tamil) plundered the stupa of it’s all gold, jewels and treasures.
Again Mahinda IV (956-972) re installed the golden casings and the golden doors but again in the late 10th century Colas (south Indian Tamil) completely plundered the complex of its valuables.
The renovation of the present stupa was completed in 1862 which as completely changed the ancient features of this most ancient stupa.
On the left to the stupa you can see the conserved remains of an Image house belonging to this stupa complex. This was built by king Devanampiyatissa in the 3rd century BC and six hundred years later this was destined to be the fist to house the Tooth Relic of Buddha, to claim the title of first Dalada Maligawa  in the island.
The building is adorned by a pair of beautiful guard stones at the entrance. Some of the pillars still holds the lotus shaped crown and smooth polished surface which has survived over 2 millennia is a rarity in the building in Anuradhapura.
Next to this is remains of a small building with the two smaller guardstone and a granite doorway. Next to this is an ancient well made of granite blocks. On the opposite side of the walkway to the stupa you will find a small stupa called Padalanchana Stupa.
On the north-western side of the stupa you can see the Basawakkulama tank. This is the most ancient monument in Anuradhapura. This was built by king Pandukabhaya in the 4th century BC.


4. Lovamahapaya

The king Devamnampiyatissa, the first Buddhist king of the country build a chapter house in this location on the instructions Mahinda Thero who brought Buddhism to the country. A century later king Dutugamunu (161-131 BC) built a massive structure of which the remains you see today.

Lovamahapaya stone columns
According to Mahavamsa, the great chronicle of the Sinhalese, Lovamahapaya was a massive nine storied building with a height of 150 ft (47 meters) and each side with a 150 feet (46 meters) length. The building was supported by 40 rows of stone pillars with 40 pillars which totaled 1600 pillars. In each level there were 1000 rooms and 100 windows. The building of Lovamahapaya was adorned with corals and precious stones. Its roof was covered with copper-bronze plates. Although this description may be a little exaggerated, this would have been a very impressive building at that time looking at what remains today.
Superstructure of the Lovamahapaya probably would have been wood and the height of this building deceased with time. According to Mahavamsa, this building was destroyed by fire during king Saddhatissa (137-119 BC) and it was built to seven stories. King Sirinaga II (240-242 AC) restored this building again to five levels.  King Jettatissa (266-276 AC) once again raised the size of the building to seven levels.
King Mahasena (276-303) demolished this building and gave the material to the Abayaghiri Viharaya due to a conflict with the monks in the Mahavihara. His son Sirimeghavanna rebuild this mansion again but was destroyed  by the Pandayns  from South India who invaded the city in the 9th century and was rebuild again in the same century by king Sena II.
Again the Colas from India invaded the city in 10th century and plundered the city of it’s all valuables which finally saw the fall of the Anuradhapura as the capital of Sri Lanka after over 1400 years.
The great king Parakramabhu I who reigned from Polonnaruwa (1153-1186 AC) raised again the 1600 pillars and partly restored it. This is what you see today.
Alternate Names :great cooper roofed mansion, lova maha prasadaya, lovamahapaya,

5. Abhayagiriya

Abhayagiri Monastery is situated on the ancient city of Anuradhapura and is credited to king Vattagamini Abaya popularly known as king Walagamba ( 103 BC, 89-77 BC)
Proof has been found that a Jain temple has existed on this land in the 5th century BC during the rule of King Pandukabaya (437-367 BC).
In 104 BC, the youngest son of king Saddhatissa (137-119 BC), prince Vattagamini Abaya came to the throne in Anuradhapura. Soon after a Tamil invasion took place. The new king unable to withstand the attack, was retreating from the capital. At this time a Jain monk was residing in the area which Abhayagiri stands today. When the king was passing this area the Jain monk named “Geri” shouted insultingly “Lo the great black Sinhala king is in flight”.

Stupa under restoration in 1995
The king ignored this comment but when he came back to Anuradhapura after 14 years after defeating the invaders, he has not forgotten this incident. The king razed this hermitage to the ground and built a massive stupa and 12 buildings and offered it to Kuppikala Mahathissa Thero. The stupa was named by coining the two rivals names “Abaya” (The king’s name) and “Geri” (The Jain monk) – The “Abayagiri” . The stupa is also believed to be built by the same king.
Until this time the center of Sri Lanka buddhism was Maha Viharaya who followed purest form of Theravada buddhist teaching. The priests of this institute accused the Mahatissa thero for accepting a personal gift and was expelled from Maha Viharaya.

photos from late 1800’s and early 1900’s -From www.imagesofceylon.com
Mahathissa Thero broke away with a following of monks to established Abhayagiri . Even though these two temples didn’t have any differences in buddhist practices, a group of disciples of a Dhammaruchi Thero of India introduced some practices which was quite different to Theravada teachings to Abhayagiri Viharaya. With this the Abhayagiri Vihara Bhikkus were called Dhammaruchi Nikaya (sect). Later Abayagiri became a great rival of Maha Vihara and became the seat for Mahayana Buddhism in Sri Lanka.
The peak of this rivalry was during the reign of King Mahasen (276-303) when the king dismantled great buildings of Maha Viharaya Complex including the Loha Maha Prasada to be used as raw material for buildings of Abayagiriya. According to the famous Chinese traveling monk Fa- Hsien, there were over 5000 monks residing at Abayagiri Viharaya, exceeding the count at Maha Viharaya in 5th century BC.
……. Over the footprint at the north of the city the king built a large tope, 400 cubits high, grandly adorned with gold and silver, and finished with a combination of all the precious substances. By the side of the top he further built a monastery, called the Abhayagiri, where there are (now) five thousand monks. There is in it a hall of Buddha, adorned with carved and inlaid works of gold and silver, and rich in the seven precious substances, in which there is an image (of Buddha) in green jade, more than twenty cubits in height, glittering all over with those substances, and having an appearance of solemn dignity which words cannot express. In the palm of the right hand there is a priceless pearl. ………..
Record of Buddhist Kingdoms by Fa-Hien
Translator: James Legge


The Grand Entrance to the Relic Shrine of Abayagiri Complex
According to the The Great Chronicle of Sri Lanka – The Mahavamsa, The Buddha visited a place called “Seela Chetiya” in Anuradhapura on his 3rd visit to Sri Lanka. Deepawamsa connects the Seela Chetiya and Abhayagiriya together and the records of Fa-Hien, the stupa of Abhayagiri is built upon a footprint of Buddha. Therefore it is believed by some that the Seela Chetiya has been located where the current Abhayagiri Stupa stands.
Until the beginning of the 20th century there was a confusion of which is what and the historians had mixed up Abhayagiri Stupa and Jethawana Stupa. But this mistake was corrected after the inscriptions found 1909 and after. The Aramaic Complex covers approx. 500 acres (200 ha) and a large number of ancient structures can be found on this site.

6. Jethawanaramaya

Jethawana Stupa is the largest stupa in the Sri Lanka. It was originally 400 feet (122 meters) in height and was the third tallest building in the world at that time. Even today as a brick monument, Jethawanaramaya still remains the tallest of its kind in the world.

Jethavana Stupa in 2015
Jethawanaramaya was built by King Mahasena of Anuradhapura (276-303) was completed by his son Sirimeghavanna. It is believed that this monument was built upon the enclosure where Mahinda Maha Thero was cremated. Recent excavation in the stupa has unearthed a one meter thick brick wall adjacent to a layer of ash and charcoal. This is believed to be the chamber where the remains of the great thero rest.
As all other buildings in Anuradhapura this too was subjected to destruction by North Indian Invaders. Then when the Anuradhapura was finally abandoned as the capital in the 11th century this stupa with others were covered by the jungle. King Parakramabahu (12th century) in the Pollonaruwa era again tried to renovate this stupa and it was rebuilt to the current height, a reduction from the original height. Today it stands at 232 feet (71 meters) .

7. Mirisavetiya

Mirisawetiya Dagaba has been built by King Dutugamunu (161-137 BC) and this belongs to Mahavihara Complex. King Dutugamunu is the great king who defeated the Tamil invaders who ruled the country for 30 years and brought the country under one ruler.
When the great king Dutugamunu was going to the water festival after his consecration he left his sceptre (kunta) which had a scared relic of Buddha inside, on this location. When he returned the kunta was stuck and nobody could remove it. So the king seeing this miracle constructed a Dagaba here.
It is said that he called this dagaba “Mirisavatiya” because the king forgot to present a food made out of chilli (miris) to the Buddhist priests before he consumed it. It was the practise of the king to present a portion of all the food which is cooked in this castle to the priests before he consume it.
The Dagaba was restored in the in the 1980’s but the whole construction collapsed in 1987. This also destroyed one of the best Vahalkada structures of Anuradhapura Era. The Dagaba you see now was completed in the 1993 and is enclosing the remains of the original Dagaba and has lost all historic features of the original. The present dagaba is 192 feet (59 metres) in height and 141 (43 metres) feet in diameter.
A British scholar who examined this monument in the late 19th century recorded the diameter of the original stupa 168 feet (51 meters) and the height about 200 feet (61 meters) .

8. Lankaramaya

The Lankaramaya  stupa was built on the 1st century BC by King Vattagamini Abaya (Walagamba). The ancient name of this temple is “Silasobbha Khandaka Cetiya”
After the defeat by the Tamil invaders on the same year he came to the throne king Walagamba (103 BC) has hidden in a place called “Silasobbha Khandaka” and after defeating the Tamils and regaining the the throne he has built this stupa by the same name. This stupa is similar to Thuparama which is the first stupa built after Buddhism was brought to the country in the 250 BC. This stupa too has had a magnificent vatadage surrounding the stupa. There are indications of 88 stone pillars have supported the roof of the vatadage. Today only few remains out of these.
The best of this vatadage architecture can bee seen in Madirigiriya.





 



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